Inside the dim doorway of a crumbling, unmarked building in Old Havana, 33-year-old Lily Castro Sevilla prepares her makeshift wooden nail station for the next customer. Half-empty nail polish reminiscent...

My favorite monument in Havana lives in the courtyard of the Plaza Vieja. A voluptuous woman wielding a fork rides a giant rooster that stands poised on one leg. There’s no plaque and no explanation...