California State University East Bay

The Pioneer

California State University East Bay

The Pioneer

California State University East Bay

The Pioneer

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African Inspired Restaurant Shows Potential, Faces Struggles

Richmond Apande, owner of Kupe
Studio Restaurant and Lounge,
stands at his bar top.

“I just want this place to be filled up,” said Richmond Apande, who has taken up residence at 943 B St. with his new business venture, Kupe Studio Restaurant and Lounge, an African and Caribbean inspired bar and grill in the heart of downtown Hayward.

Apande, 45, of Antioch, and his family, originally from the village of Nyasoso in Cameroon, ran a small restaurant and lounge in their hometown, and he hopes to replicate and expand upon that concept in the East Bay.

Since moving to the United States 20 years ago, Apande earned his Mechanical Engineering degree from Fresno State University, then moved to CSU East Bay where he completed his Master’s degree in Engineering Management.

Kupe is named for the highest mountain in the Bakossi region, believed to be a source of mystical power. It’s a place where diners can sit down and enjoy a plate of myondo, a tamale-esque dish of fermented and ground cassava plant steamed in plantain leaves, or goat pepper soup, tomato-based and touched with habanero and caribbean spice, prepared as a weekend specialty by Apande’s sister, Carol Apande.

It fills a roughly 6,000 square foot space on the downtown strip, which before undergoing seven months of renovations, was formerly an antique shop, and is now the only place in Hayward where you can enjoy African and Caribbean inspired dishes.

Apande was hoping for his restaurant to be filled with customers excited to taste the fried plantains and the only Ndole Vegetable soup in Hayward. He was hoping for a bar filled with thirsty patrons. Most of all, he was hoping his establishment would also be used as a dance and entertainment spot, where musicians could show off their talents, and people in groups small and large could let loose.

“Right now, you come, it is a dead city down here, nobody is here. So I thought that me bringing in social entertainment here, it will bring up the city a little bit,” said Apande.

The Caribbean jerk chicken sandwich combines
layers of heat with chipotle mayo atop spiced
chicken breast.

Apande’s motivation for bringing the restaurant to Hayward stems from a newspaper article he read in the Daily Review in November 2011 discussing the potential revitalization of downtown Hayward, and Apande said he wanted to be a part of the resurgence. “I look at Hayward like the center of the Bay. It’s the heart of the Bay.”

However, things have not gone nearly as smoothly as Apande had hoped.

According to Apande, due to restrictions on the alcohol license that has been granted to Kupe by the California department of Alcoholic Beverage Control (ABC), his restaurant and bar are permitted to have recorded music playing, but are not allowed to have any live musicians performing or any dancing throughout the premises.

“They are putting me in a very tough position right now, and I’m losing some business,” says Apande, explaining many potential clients come in to discuss holding Christmas and other parties at the restaurant, only to be heavily discouraged by the restrictions on dancing. He fears they will go elsewhere with their business if he cannot get this stipulation removed.

Due to the limits he is facing, Apande canceled his official grand opening ceremony, originally scheduled for tomorrow, which included a live music performance.

Erik Szakacs, Oakland District Administrator for the ABC, says that Apande was never under any obligation to accept the conditions that were placed on his license, and he chose to acknowledge and accept them.

In the April license application form for Kupe, it is noted the restaurant premises are located within 100 feet from residences, and the area has a 20 percent inflated crime rate over the average, among other resolutions.

It is these resolutions that provide justification for the conditions, numbering 12, that have been placed on Kupe’s ABC license. The two most limiting in Apande’s view are numbers eight and nine. “There shall be no live entertainment of any type, including but not limited to live music, disc jockey, karaoke, topless entertainment, male or female performers or fashion shows,” states number eight on the list. Nine is more succinct, but just as limiting. “There will be no dancing allowed on the premises.”

“Each application is unique,” said John Carr, public information officer for the ABC.

Szakacs said what applies to one licensee may not be the same as what applies to another, even if they are within a close distance of each other.

While optimistic, Apande’s vision of his new restaurant and lounge differs heavily from the reality at the present time.

One of the first hires at Kupe, head chef Attallah Peirson, 42, says the eatery has had a few busy nights over the past few weeks, with the restaurant having been open for roughly a month and a half, but for the most part has remained empty. Peirson, for the past several years, has been working for the San Francisco Giants as a cook for hundreds and thousands of people, performing various food preparation duties on several levels of the AT&T Park concourses.

“I enjoy it,” said Peirson of his first occupation on a kitchen line in years. “Getting the fire back, being back on the line, cooking and everything,” he said, explaining that the pressure of timeliness and portion control, along with the presentation of each dish, motivates him and his end goal is to leave the customers happy and full.

He speaks with excitement and gusto about Kupe’s food, despite having little to no experience in preparing African and Caribbean food, and a small, greenhorn staff of two supporting him for the time being. Adam Rivera, 21, of Hayward, who is still attending the California Culinary Academy, feels this is a good start for him. Jeff Messman, 28, of Oakland, is an all-around utility in the kitchen, and is being trained by Peirson and Rivera after just over a week of employment with Kupe.

The menu, while established and mostly comprehensive, is still in flux as Peirson says he still needs to make some changes and additions. At the moment, it’s filled with a smattering of authentically inspired dishes that incorporate some African and mixed Caribbean influences, but is strongly American fusion fare. Some of the standout items include rum chili glazed grilled prawns, deep fried plantains, and the Caribbean jerk chicken sandwich.

The jerk sandwich, on toasted sourdough, is true to its roots with an impacting punch of flavor and spice, especially on the chicken. An herb-filled and peppery spice dominates the meat, only to be slathered in the intense smoke and spice layers of the chipotle mayo, topped with a cooling fresh tomato and lettuce, and pickle slices on the side provide a welcome respite from the heat, with a complementary tang.

Fried plantains remain unbattered, simple and true to form, seasoned generously with a mix of salt, black pepper and granulated garlic, maintaining a pleasant texture.

The rum chili glazed shrimp, presented on a roasted skewer, flanked by bell pepper and onion slices, were peppery, with an even-keeled spice, which seems to be part of the theme at the budding restaurant. The shrimp would have had a better chance to shine had it not been usurped by the sweet and spicy rice it was served on, filled with diced grilled onions and layers of flavor that build on the palate.

Upon entrance, solid-colored walls lead to high ceilings. The bar shelving is replete with deep colored woods, with two flat screen televisions on either end, and the granite bar top, in addition to other counters, adds a touch of refinement to the open space. White tablecloths and contemporary furniture fill the room, with booths toward the front of the restaurant, against the glass catching a view of B Street.

Apande has more plans for his business if things go well, including developing an outdoor patio for more space and entertainment. However, he is still bothered by the boundaries of his ABC license.

“I just think that the city should help. My goal is that the city should help more than what they do right now,” said Apande, noting that while he feels the city is on his side, it is not doing enough to promote businesses in the downtown area, and to push forth the revitalization effort that has been so heavily discussed amongst city officials.

“I’m still hoping,” said Apande. “I did a lot of investment here, so I don’t just want to throw it away.”

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African Inspired Restaurant Shows Potential, Faces Struggles